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Schermata 2014-05-30 alle 17.20.44



garment districtSo just how important is Fashion Week to the business of Fashion?    According to the numbers that the NYC Tourism Bureau released – very important.   New York Fashion Week contributes more revenue to the city than any other annual event in the NY Metro area. New York is much more than the U.S. Open Tennis Tournament, baseball and football games, the theatre and concerts. Restaurants, taxi cabs, hotels and even street vendors experience a major lift in their businesses when Fashion Week is in full swing. The short-term objective for Fashion Week – to drive sales for the local businesses and it is always a resounding success.

What about the national retail community? Do the “looks” that march down the runway actually make it in-store and influence the consumer buy the new product? The answer is yes all around. As it is observed, the annual evolution in how the brands and designers utilize Fashion Week as a platform, we find the runway is becoming more accessible to the consumer. They have more access to the shows via the media and internet allowing them to view the shows first-hand. This component, part of the larger strategy for the more cutting-edge designers and brands to connect with their consumer rather than the couture fashion crowd, is working.

The use of unwearable fashion is not unknown or obsolete, but the smartest brands and designers today find a way to get the right balance to be able to sell10419934_10202328813157373_1943406745_n the brand to the retailer as well as to the consumer. Fashion is relevant again. Men have already shown signs that image matters by their desire to invest in their wardrobes to look good. Women were missing in action the past few years but in the past four months they have started to update their tired wardrobes to show a renewed fashion sense. This year, Fashion Week has elevated retailers and brands in the eye of the consumers and as a result, got them back in the game,

You might think that none of the goings on in New York’s Fashion Week would have any importance or impact on anyone or anything. The premise is most definitely wrong given the current economy.   This semi-annual event, properly called the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, is held twice a year in February and September. There also are several other fashion weeks to consider at this time of year, those are located in Paris, London and Milan. (I was fortunate to be in Milan not that long ago and had the opportunity to take in some fashion week events.)

What I find surprising is something that is seen on the catwalks at Fashion Week will ultimately be seen in drugstores within a week or over the following months. An example of this would definitely be the rise of the purchase of nail polish and manicures and/or pedicures.

06zCELEBS1_SPAN-articleLargeWhat I find surprising is something that is seen on the catwalks at Fashion Week will ultimately be seen in in the drug store aisles within weeks or months.   The styles of such manicures and pedicures will be seen in salons within a matter of days, if not hours, after Fashion Week. The designers supply nail polish manufacturers with new colors, plenty of publicity in addition to catchy product names that are sure to get a response from not only single ladies, but   Suzie Home Maker in Anytown, USA.

The manufacturers of items such as make-up, nail polish, and the many other accruements of the fashion industry are major supporters of the runway shows simply because of the marketing value of the show.   Bloggers\, photographers and beauty editors are routinely backstage documenting the use of the company’s products.   It’s a genuine endorsement and not placement of the product along with unimaginable press coverage in any other venues to the benefit(s) in all of the industry.

Per the New York Times, the companies that cater to Hometown, USA are watching Fashion Week with keen interest.   Those buyers that are responsible for beauty products in many of the drugstore chains (i.e., CVS Caremark Corporation and Walgreen’s) firmly believe in the importance of their companies to do this.     The trends brought to light at such events more than likely will influence the stores aisles in the near future. CVS alone has said that they have seen a double digit percent gain in nail polish alone because of the trends that arise from Fashion Week. CVS now places its nail polish displays in strategic places around the store in an effort to catch the eye of impulse shoppers.

In many areas that are associated with the market, Fashion Week sets trends that will benefit the small, mid-size and large businesses not only in the United States but around the world as well.

During the Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, New York City and the upscale areas surrounding Lincoln Center are taken over by designers, fashionistas and210 celebrities. The parties, the runway shows and the atmosphere of the events embody the glamorous style of America’s fashion industry.  While award-winning DJs spin an eclectic mix of techno tunes and old-time favorites, the crowd waits for new seasonal looks to be unveiled. The colors, the prints, the textures and the graceful lines dictate the seasonal style. Fashion Week is where styles are born and the fate of trends is decided.

 Since its inception in the 1940s, New York Fashion Week was a way for domestic fashion houses and ateliers to compete against established brands in Milan, Paris and London. Today, the theaters, studios and stages of Lincoln Center and venues across the city are filled with the noises of camera flashes, electronic music and excited chatter as the public waits for the grand unveiling.

 This eight-day event covers the entire fashion spectrum and takes place in a wide variety of venues across the city. Stalwarts of the industry show their collections alongside up-and-comers who are prepared to make their mark.

Increasingly, the fashion industry is coming under steady pressure to widen the spectrum of beauty ideals.   Many Ad campaigns have called a great deal of the beauty standards unrealistic, and many of the major department stores have begun adding plus size models. New York’s recent child model laws are designed to protect all models under 18 from exploitation.

05fashion-13But there’s still plenty of room for more inclusion.   People with disabilities are an untapped consumer market in terms of fashion, they read the magazines, shop in stores, but nothing is ever pitched to them. And I find this very wrong.

On the first day of the recent New York Fashion Week, one designer in particular seemed to understand by deciding decided to shake things up and feature the first person to “walk” the runway in a wheelchair. The designer, made the decision to cast ‘role models not runway models. It is so important that women have positive body image and are empowered in work and their life. People with disabilities need to see it. It’s a confidence booster. It’s like, ‘if she’s doing it, I can do it. Who cares about my wheelchair?'”   The model was thrilled to be on the runway and felt natural and confident.

Other designers are also starting to reach out to people who love shopping and fashion, but feel excluded.   In February 2014 DKNY also used “real people” on the runway alongside professional models.   Also in January 2014, Diesel, the Italian ready-to-wear design company, rocked the industry with its “We are Connected” campaign, featuring 26-year-old Jillian Mercado in one ad. “Just because we have a disability doesn’t mean we have to stay home and hide away from the world,” said Mercado, executive editorial director of We The Urban Magazine, a fashion magazine based in New York.

Mercado, who was diagnosed with spastic muscular dystrophy at age 12, has also loved fashion since a young age. “I wanted to be in the fashion industry before even knowing what the fashion industry was.”   Mercado, who uses a wheelchair, attended the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, earning a degree in fashion merchandising management. “It kind of blows my mind that when I first started [in the industry] I didn’t have anyone to look up to and model after.”

Mercado said her time in the spotlight of the Diesel ad was a “blessing in disguise.”   At first she was scared and “prepared for the worst” from people who “sit behind computers” and troll the Internet spraying abusive comments. However, after the ad ran she found an inspiring outpouring of support. “Now that I have this opportunity, that the spotlight is on me, I have the obligation to tell the world there are people like me.”

The push to diversify role models is showing up in a variety of media.

For the United Nations’ International Day of Persons with Disabilities, the advocacy group Pro Infirmis teamed up with Bahnhofstrasse (the upscale shopping street in Zurich, Switzerland) to display mannequins who were modeled on real-life people with disabilities. An emotional video of each person seeing him/herself as a mannequin in an actual store window quickly went viral..

This is progress; it is past time to include people of all ethnicities, sizes, and shapes.   It’s past time to include people with disabilities.   And this is just the beginning.

Kathy Kiefer

Sure-com America launched the hashtag #BEFOUNDED



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Schermata 2013-11-26 alle 04.01.18


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natale-negli-usaChristmas is a widely celebrated festive holiday in the United States. The Christmas and holiday season begins around the end of November with a major shopping kickoff on Black Friday, the day after Thanksgiving, though Christmas decorations and music playing in stores sometimes extend into the period between Halloween and Thanksgiving. Many schools and businesses are closed during the period between Christmas and the New Year’s Day holiday, which is a time commonly used to spend time with family, return unwanted gifts at stores, and shop after-Christmas sales. Most decorations are taken down by New Year’s or Epiphany.  Other observances considered part of the season (and potentially included in non-denominational holiday greetings such as “Happy Holidays”) include Hanukkah, Yule, Epiphany, Kwanza and winter solstice celebrations.

The interior and exterior of houses are decorated during the weeks leading up to Christmas Eve. Christmas tree farms in the United States and dsc_0412Canada provide families with trees for their homes, many opting for artificial ones, but many prefer real trees.  Many people that have farms make a special treat of going out in their forest and cutting down their own tree.   The Christmas tree usually stands centrally in the home, decorated with ornaments, tinsel and lights, with an angel or a star symbolizing the Star of Bethlehem at the top.

Christmas Eve is popularly described as “the night before Christmas” in the poem actually titled “A Visit from St. Nicholas.”  Better known as Santa Claus, he is said to visit homes while children are sleeping during the night before Christmas morning. The fireplaces have been replaced in many homes with an electronic fireplace, but the yule log has remained a tradition. Christmas stockings are hung on the mantelpiece for Santa Claus to fill with little gifts (“stocking stuffers”). It is tradition throughout the United States for children to leave a glass of milk and plate of Christmas cookies for Santa Claus nearby.

10097091-sorridente-famiglia-decorare-un-albero-di-natalePresents the family will exchange are wrapped and placed near the tree, including presents to be given to pets. Friends exchange wrapped presents and tell each other, “Do not open before Christmas!” Grandparents, aunts and uncles, cousins, siblings and occasionally guests from out of town are entertained in the home or else visited. Wrapped presents are most commonly opened on the morning of Christmas Day; however, other families choose to open all or some of their presents on Christmas Eve, depending on evolving family traditions, logistics, and the age of the children involved; for example, adults might open their presents on Christmas Eve and minor children on Christmas morning, or everyone might open their gifts on Christmas morning. Others follow the tradition of opening family-exchanged gifts on Christmas Eve night, followed by opening of the presents Santa brought on Christmas morning. Children are normally allowed to play with their new toys and games afterwards.

The traditional Christmas dinner usually features roasted turkey with stuffing (sometimes called dressing), ham or roast beef (sometimes all three) and Yorkshire puddings.  Potatoes, squash, roasted vegetables and cranberry sauce are served along with tonics and sherries.  A variety of sweet pastry and egg nog sprinkled with cinnamon and nutmeg are served in the United States. Certain dishes such as casseroles and desserts are prepared with a family recipe (usually kept a secret). Fruits, nuts, cheeses and chocolates are enjoyed as snacks.

Other traditions include a special church service on the Sunday before Christmas and Midnight Mass on Christmas Eve. Candlelight services are held earlier in the evening for families with children. A re-enactment of the Nativity of Jesus called a Nativity play is another tradition.

Christmas-related attractions, such as the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree, Radio City Music Hall for their Christmas Spectacular and elaborate DSC01410animated department store windows in New York City are heavily visited by tourists from all over the world, as well as native New Yorkers, Christmas music can be heard in the background. The Mormon Tabernacle Choir is one whose annual carol singing is well-recognized; another example is the Boys Choir can be heard singing Christmas Time is Here, a song featured in the animated television special “A Charlie Brown Christmas.”  Christmas symphony orchestra and choral presentation such as Handel’s Messiah and performances of The Nutcracker ballet are well attended. Local radio stations may temporarily switch format to play exclusively Christmas music, some going to an all-Christmas format as early as mid-October. A few television stations broadcast a Yule Log without interruption for several hours. News broadcasts and talk shows feature Christmas-themed segments, emphasizing fellowship and goodwill among neighbors.    Also on television, there are a plethora of holiday themed specials and movies.

While tradition holds that the official Christmas starts on Thanksgiving with the stores ready to receive the Christmas shopper the day after Thanksgiving, unfortunately more and more in recent years many stores are starting to push things for Christmas just as children are going back to school right after Labor Day.   There are even stores that open on Thanksgiving Day or that evening to get a jump on the competition.     This is so wrong and really ruins the spirit of the season.   Just to make extra dollars it would seem.

Kathy Kiefer



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tumblr_lw9tcoDv0w1r3mpzko1_500When picturing Long Island, it is hard having anything other than a lighthouse being the first image that comes to mind. These iconic buildings are the quintessential landmark that locals and tourists alike associate with the Island. To many, the beacon symbolizes more than just the beaches and calm waters – but reminds us of the comforts of home, and where we came from. For others, it evokes fond memories of family vacations out east, or trips to some of the local Long Island beaches on a warm summer’s day. No matter what Long Island Lighthouses evoke in your mind, it is undeniable that they are an important part of the history of Long Island. Make sure to visit a Long Island Lighthouse if you’re visiting, or even if you’re a local just looking to experience Long Island heritage, Lighthouses are a unique piece of history notdraft_lens6598792module53369332photo_1251069698montauk_point_lighthouse_long_island to be missed.     At nearly 120 miles in length, Long Island holds some of the most beautiful lighthouses in the United States, including quite a few that welcome visitors to climb to their perches to enjoy spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean.    Many Long Island lighthouses are accessible via private tours and boat trips.   Long Island is home to over 25 New York lighthouses, each with a history and story of its own.   One of the most famous New York lighthouses is the Montauk Point Lighthouse, commissioned by George Washington in 1796. It is one of three Long Island lighthouses that permit a climb to the top of the tower, along with Fire Island Lighthouse and Horton Point.

I was fortunate recently to be back up on the Island and have the opportunity to go out to the Montauk Point Lighthouse, and have been to the Fire Island Lighthouse numerous times, while growing up in Brightwaters (Bay Shore area).  I look forward to visiting there again real soon.

I am providing an overview of many of Long Island’s Lighthouses.   Unfortunately there are some that are on private land and are therefore inaccessible.


ExecutionRocksExecution Rocks Light Station, an offshore light, is located in the northwestern portion of the Long Island Sound in the center of the channel between Sands Point and New Rochelle, New York. It is about one mile offshore. The light station is on a protective artificial island with a small boat basin. The light station was established in 1849 and the tower was first lit in 1850. The Light Tower was designed by Alexander Parris. It is built from granite and is an example of wave-swept tower engineering.  The goal is to restore the light keeper’s dwelling into a Bed and Breakfast. The three hour tour from Port Washington Town Dock on Main Street in Port Washington is a joy for tourists and history buffs.

Fire Island Lighthouse       Robert Moses State Park Field # 5, Fire Island, NY 11770
Located on Fire Island National Seashore just east of Robert Moses State Park. Walk the scenic boardwalk, climb to the top of the tower, visit the museum, and see the original 1858 Fresnel lens on display.

The Fire Island Lighthouse Preservation Society’s mission is to preserve, maintain and operate the Fire Island Lighthouse andlong-island-head-lighthouse-beautiful-view keeper’s quarters to promote Long Island’s heritage and culture.   It is also east of the Robert Moses State Park.    The first Fire Island Light blinked on in 1826 to guide ships to New York Harbor with a beacon 74 feet above sea level. But shipwrecks continued to occur, and the U.S. Lighthouse Board decided the beacon was too low for a major coastal light. Congress appropriated $40,000 and the current 166-foot brick tower was illuminated November 1, 1858, and became the first light sighted by transatlantic ships and tens of thousands of immigrants. The black and white bands on the tower were added in 1891. The lighthouse with its classic beehive-shaped Fresnel lens throwing a beam 21 miles went dark in 1974 and was replaced by an automated light on the water tower adjacent Robert Moses State Park. But as a result of the raising of $1.2 million by the Fire Island Lighthouse Preservation Society, the Fire Island Light has been relit with an automated beacon.


p425062758-3Horton Point Lighthouse    

Lighthouse Road,  Southold, NY 11971
Open to public weekends during the summer.  Horton Point Lighthouse is on the north-fork of Eastern Long Island.    The current lighthouse was established and the tower was first lit in 1857. The site is on a bluff 60 feet above Long Island Sound. The tower was automated in 1933 and is now operational. The light was deactivated from 1933 to 1990. The foundation is granite and the lighthouse is built out of granite and brick with stucco. The tower is 58 feet high with the focal plane of the light being 103 feet above sea level. The tower is white with a black lantern and a copper dome. The light has a slow green flash every ten seconds.

Cedar Island Lighthouse    Cedar Point County Park, East Hampton, NY 11937

The lighthouse is the subject of a preservation project.   The lighthouse is situated on Cedar Island, just off of Cedar Point,CEDAR_ISLAND_LIGHTHOUSE_150_500 between the waters of Northwest Harbor and Gardiners Bay.    Settled in 1651, Cedar Point was once a busy port for shipping farm goods, fish, and timber from Sag Harbor. The historic Cedar Point Lighthouse stood on an island 200 yards from shore when it was built in 1860. Its beacon served to guide whaling ships in and out of Sag Harbor during its hey-day as a major port. The hurricane of 1938 transformed the shoreline, shifting sands to create a narrow, walkable strip that now connects the lighthouse with the mainland.

coldspringharborCold Spring Harbor Lighthouse Centre Island, Cold Spring Harbor, NY 11724
Currently located on private property on Centre Island. No public access.    Cold Spring Harbor Light was a lighthouse located in Cold Spring Harbor on the North Shore of Long Island.  It was built in 1890 to mark a shoal at the entrance to Cold Spring Harbor. After the lighthouse was deactivated in 1965, the original light and tower were purchased by a private individual and moved to its current location on land, 1 mile to the southwest. An automated light tower and day beacon were erected on the original caisson, and continues to serve as a navigation aid.

Huntington Harbor Lighthouse

huntinghbCurrently under restoration.

Huntington Harbor Lighthouse, formerly known as Lloyd Harbor Lighthouse, is located in Huntington Bay.  The lighthouse was established in 1857 and the current tower was first lit in 1912. The light was automated in 1949 and is still operational. The foundation and lighthouse are made of cast reinforced concrete.   The reinforced concrete foundation and structure is unique to the area, as well. The foundation for the light was built nearby on land, then floated to the site and sunk.   The tower is square “castle” in the Beaux-Arts style. In 1912 a fifth order Fresnel lens was installed.    In 1857, a lighthouse was built on the tip of Lloyd’s Neck to assist ships in finding shelter in Lloyd Harbor from the wind and waves that often hinder navigation on the Long Island Sound. This first lighthouse, called the Lloyd Harbor Light, was of little help to ships entering the Huntington Harbor. In 1912, a new lighthouse was built to serve Huntington Harbor. In 1949, the light was fully automated. The deterioration of the unoccupied lighthouse started and would continue for almost two decades.   As a result of a 1983 survey, the light was deemed unsafe for servicing personnel and too expensive to repair. The Coast Guard considered demolishing the lighthouse and erecting a steel tower.  In 1985, a group called Save Huntington’s Lighthouse was formed by local citizens to save the lighthouse from demolition. It became the first private group in the country to successfully take over and restore an offshore lighthouse. The lighthouse was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1988 under the name of Lloyd Harbor Lighthouse.

latimer_reef_copyLatimer Reef Lighthouse           

Located off the northeast end of Fisher’s Island. No public access.    Latimer Reef Lighthouse is a sparkplug lighthouse located at Latimer’s Reef in Fishers Island Sound.  The lighthouse is located one mile northwest of East Point on Fisher’s Island, New York.  Originally called Latemore’s Reef after James Latemore. The property was described as “Latimer Reef Light was completed in 1884. It sits in 18 feet of water at the western end offshore of Fisher’s Island Sound. The light includes a 30-foot-diameter cylindrical caisson foundation painted brown. The caisson is filled with concrete. This foundation supports a 46 foot cast iron superstructure that includes a four-story conical tower topped by a one-story cylindrical watch room and decagonal lantern. The tower, watch room and lantern are painted white with a brown stripe a full story tall around the tower’s third story.   The property is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Little Gull Island Lighthouse                

East Plum Island, Plum Island, NY     No public access. The first lighthouse was a 51-foot high tower established in 1806, which waslittle-gull-island-edit-3p replaced by the current 81-foot conical tower and a second order Fresnel lens in 1869. The lighthouse was automated in 1978 and is still operational. The foundation is a granite pier and the construction material is granite. The US Coast Guard has identified Little Gull Island Light as one of its Historic Light Stations in New York. In 2009 Little Gull Island Light was put up for sale under the National Historic Lighthouse Preservation Act.

NorthDumplingFBNorth Dumpling Lighthouse    

Fisher’s Island, New York.     No public access.

 North Dumpling Island is the northernmost of two islands in Fishers Island Sound, located about 0.3 nautical miles north of South Dumpling Island.  The two-acre island is privately owned by Dean Kamen, and is home to the North Dumpling Lighthouse.  It is a mile off the coast of Connecticut, south of Groton, Connecticut, but is within the territory of the town of Southold in New York State.

Race Rock Lighthouse       

Located off the west end of Fisher’s Island. No public access. Mariners cannot help but admire this lighthouse perched on35203308 notorious Race Rock. Built in 1879, the gothic revival Keeper’s Quarters support the square and octagonal tower. An engineering feat in its time, this sentinel stands as a magnificent example of Victorian charm.  The reef is a dangerous set of rocks off the coast of Fishers Island on Long Island Sound and was the site of many shipwrecks.  Race Rock Lighthouse was built between 1871 and 1878. Designed by Francis Hopkinson Smith, the lighthouse is an excellent example of 19th century engineering and design. The massive masonry foundations on the reef required seven years to complete. Once the foundations were secure, the stone structure, including the keeper’s quarters and the tower, were built in only nine months. The lighthouse has a fourth-order Fresnel lens in a tower standing 67 feet above the waterline. The lighthouse was automated in 1978 by the Coast Guard.   The lighthouse is believed by some to be haunted and was featured on an episode of Ghost Hunters and seen in the show’s opening credits.

Plum Island Lighthouse       Plum Island, New York.   No public access.

imagePlum Island Lighthouse is located on the western end of Plum Island, east of Orient Point.  An historic granite lighthouse originally built in 1869 sits at the site, but no longer serves as an active aid to navigation.   The lighthouse was put on the National Register of Historic Places in 2011. A short distance northwest of the granite lighthouse building is a 14 feet metal tower that holds the automated light that has served as an aid to navigation since the earlier light was decommissioned in 1978.   In 1826 the west end of Plum Island was purchased from Richard Jerome for $90 for the purpose of building a lighthouse. The following year a 35 feet high stone tower had been constructed to support the first light. That first light consisted of ten whale oil lamps with reflectors. The light helped navigation near the entrance to Long Island Sound, through the channel between Orient Point and Plum Island. In 1856 the original lamps and reflectors were replaced by a sixth-order Fresnel lens.    Keepers were removed from Plum Island in 1978 when the light was automated on a structure built to the side of the 1869 lighthouse.  In 1994 the Fresnel lens was removed from the lighthouse and is on display at the East End Seaport Museum in Greenport.  In 2007 a resolution was passed by the Town of Southold that will transfer ownership of the lighthouse to the town, and to eventually refurbish and relight the Lighthouse.   The Plum Island Lighthouse, like all of Plum Island, is not open for public visits. The light may be seen from the water, but landing on the island is restricted to persons authorized by the United States Department of Homeland Security.

Montauk Point Lighthouse Museum.   

Montauk, NY 11954   National Maritime Historic Landmark. This is the oldest lighthouseon Long Island, as well as well as the montauk-point-lighthouseoldest in New York State, completed in 1796 on a spot where the Royal Navy had maintained signal bonfires for its ships during the American Revolution. Congress appropriated funds in 1794 to buy the site. Three years later, President George Washington authorized the construction of the lighthouse after many ships had been lost on the reefs at land’s end. The builder was John McComb Jr., a famous early American architect, who was given a budget of $22,300. Now only 50 feet from the edge of the bluff (originally 297 feet), the 80-foot sandstone tower is threatened by erosion. Almost $1 million has been spent to terrace the bluff and haul in boulders to save the lighthouse. The Coast Guard operates the beacon, which was automated from Fresnel lens to 1,000-watt airport-type beacon in 1987. The Montauk Historical Society operates the visitor center and takes care of the grounds.  It is located at the easternmost tip of Long Island.

Kathy Kiefer

Schermata 09-2456547 alle 16.18.29


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1fragrance-house009Florence, still illuminated by the warmth of summer and the Vogue Fashion Night out yesterday, will offer the usual and unmissable appointment with: Fragrances 11, the fair-event to be held in the elegance of yesteryear at the Stazione Leopolda 13 to 15 September.

And like every other issue passed, the 2013 will also be remembered. If last year the theme was the journey, exhibited a surprising installation curated by Alessandro Moradei, which had dotted the arched ceilings of the Stazione Leopolda in fluffy white clouds, this year’s theme will be perfume salon excellence memory.

Memory is understood as an evocation of memories even more hidden and forgotten, stimulated by a concept structured and composed not only in smells, but also with graphics and video projections to accompany visitors throughout the exhibition. Memory is understood even more so from a scientific nature, in which the smell odor becomes therapeutic food for the journey.

In this innovative idea you connect with is one of the most interesting moments of the event, the talk of Smell and Memory edited by Alienor Massenet, a prominent figure of IFF and nose for Estée Lauder, Lancôme, Armani, John Galliano, Memo.

During his lecture Alienor Massenet will present a unique project of its kind for several years involving some of the most important public hospitals in Paris, where in specific workshops the smell becomes “an instrument of rehabilitation mnemonic” for patients suffering from serious problems such as amnesia or trauma. Thanks to the collaboration between IFF and the non-profit association CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women) smells can become a valuable tool for the reactivation of neuronal circuits related to memory.

If this event is not enough in itself to make it worthwhile a visit to Pitti Fragrances, the show re-launches with an event that will allow the public to fragrances put his/her nose in the land of perfume par excellence: a dedicated focus to the world and market of perfumery the Middle East. The oriental fragrances have always influenced western perfumery, it is a fact that most acquired. Moreover, in recent years, the love shown to the old by the most demanding consumers has opened a veritable highway where to gallop curiosity about the fascinating Levantine galaxy. What better opportunity than that offered by Fragrances 11 for a meeting between the two universes!

The focus will be attended by Shahzad Haider, CEO of the Fragrance Foundation Arabia with a deep knowledge of the  luxury perfume market both in the Middle East and Internationally. His speech will focus in particular on the interaction between East and West, both culturally and commercially. To interview a host of this exception, Chandler Burr that has illuminated the scene of 2012 Fragrances. Although he no longer needs an introduction, we recall that Burr is a journalist and perfume critic for the New York Times and is one of the most influential figures in the world of perfumery.

In this fast-paced presentation of Fragrances 11, we cannot forget the fixture of Observatory presented by IFF, world leader in the production of perfumes, essences and flavorings. In particular there is a meeting scheduled for Friday the 13th focusing on news and trends in international perfumery.

Another novelty this year is the presentation of an emerging name in the publishing world, a bi-annual magazine dedicated to every art form in its most innovative expressions, cuisine and fashion. The publication name is ANEW, project born from the inspiration of Francesco Bonami and Martina Mondadori.

These are the events that will be the backdrop to the biggest names in the perfumery niche and luxury that Fragrances have an audience increasingly demanding and being informed of their latest creations.

Alongside the Classic which gathers the most famous fashion house, there will be, as always, the Spring area, dedicated to young brands and new fragrances that are in a showcase where they have more visibility. To further stimulate your curiosity, suffice it to mention that the then unknown Naomi Goodsir last year showed up in Spring with the surprising Cuir Velours Bois d’ascended. Who will be the Goodsir this year?

In addition, there will always be the area Charms, bijoux and accessories dedicated to the most original, the must for a true luxury lifestyle, sometimes accompanied by a cote olfactory even more precious

If everything you have read thus far has your appetite whetted, and if you want to be among the first to hear the news about the perfume for next season and maybe discover some which would become a classic, SAVE THE DATE!

13-15 September 2013

Leopolda Station,

viale F.lli Rosselli, Florence

Friday – Sunday 10.00 – 18.00

(Free entrance reserved for professionals)

Kathy Kiefer


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Long Island August 2013 087


lighthouse_shutterfly1Windmills and water mills are truly the wonders of an earlier era, the wooden technology of yesteryear.  To us, they may be graceful and charming relics.  To the colonists, however, they were a vital necessity.  Colonial craftsmen constructed them to mill grain, saw wood, pump water and do various other jobs.  Furthermore, the mill was the gathering place for the villagers.  While they waited for their grain to be milled, the villagers exchanged news and gossip and stories.  Millers were well respected not only for their mill’s output but also for their own weather forecasts, knowledge of engines and machines, and, of course, up-to-date news.

Long Island is an ideal place for catching the steady wind from the ocean and bays:  125 miles long, narrow – only 20 miles across at its widest, and relatively flat.  Thus, many windmills were built here and still exist here, particularly at the island’s east end.  As a matter of fact, the south fork of eastern Long Island contains the greatest number of surviving windmills in the United States.  Before 1700, Long Island also had many water mills, some of them powered by the tide.

Surviving centuries of time historic wooden windmills, reminiscent of old time England; dot the landscape of Suffolk County’s lush east end scenery.   Suffolk County holds 11 such windmills. Few of this style of windmill remain in the United States and it’s quite unusual to find such a large concentration of them in one area. In fact, local historians claim that Long Island holds the largest number of this type of windmill in one place.    The windmills found on Long Island were constructed in the “smock mill” style, so-called because their skirted design resembled a baker’s smock. According to historians, they are also called “cap mills” because the top cap of the mill rotates. They have oversized lattice blades and wood-shingle construction.

The historic windmills on Long Island were created by skilled artisans and many have been restored and are open for visitors to explore how lilighthousemapposterthese massive machines benefited early Americans and aided in their survival.    The mill at Water Mill is one of 11 standing windmills on the eastern end of Long Island, which may represent the largest such concentration in the United States. All 11 were built between 1795 and 1820 and are called smock mills, because they supposedly look like someone wearing a smock.      Though windmills played a role in the nation’s agrarian beginnings, they go back at least 700 years in Europe, where they were used to accomplish tasks essential to survival: grinding grain, sawing wood, pumping water and accomplishing any other job in which the wind could be used to do their work.

The first windmill on Long Island went into operation in 1644; four years after colonists from New Haven founded the town of Southold on the North Fork.  Throughout the 18th and 19th centuries,Long Island August 2013 087 mills played an important role in the economy and agricultural development of the east end of Long Island. This situation changed, however, when processed flour was sent east by train in large enough quantities to satisfy demand. Local farmers turned to growing potatoes instead of grain.   Now many of the potato farms are giving way to modern ”Hamptons-style” housing or are being used to grow grapes for the island’s burgeoning wine industry. The last operating windmill, the Hayground Mill in East Hampton, closed in 1919. Two others were made into homes.   Through the years, their usefulness over, the 11 standing mills were repaired only occasionally, and maintenance was perfunctory or nonexistent. Several mills were purchased by individuals and moved from their original sites. Two have been converted to private residences.

With the passage of time and damage from storms, the windmills faced extinction. But in the 1970’s, renewed interest by local residents and the Society for the Preservation of Long Island Antiquities spurred preservation movements.

The following is but a list of some of the historic Long Island Windmills:

faulkner1The Antigo Windmill, built in 1804 and is located in East Hampton.    The Mill Hill had been built up from a natural rise in 1729 on the common at the south end of East Hampton.    The Pantigo Windmill was built by Samuel Schelliner.

Old Hook Mill,    A windmill built by Nathaniel Dominy V in 1806.  The Hook Mill was restored to working order in 1939. Celebrated its 200th anniversary in 2006.  Located in East Hampton

Beebe Windmill       This windmill was built in 1820 by Samuel Schellinger for Captain Lester Beebe.  The Beebe windmill has been moved numerous times since it has been built.  The Beebe Windmill is the only windmill in the United States that is iron-geared.    It is located in Bridgehampton and is open periodically in season.

Gardiner Windmill –   Built in 1804.   Stands in its original place, and was built a few months after Pantio Mill.    This mill was built by Nathaniel Dominy V for John Lyon Gardiner and several others. The mill was completed on September 28, 1804.  The mill continued to operate until 1900.

Corwith Windmill –   Corwith windmill was built in the 1800s in Sag Harbor.  It was moved in 1813 to its location now.  Corwith windmill was operating until 1887.   Water Mill, NY Shinnecock Windmill at Stony Brook Southampton College, Southhampton.  This windmill was originally constructed in the early 1700s and moved from Southampton Village to its present location in 1890. It has been a fixture ever since the college opened.    Exterior viewing only.
Shelter Island Windmill  Built in 1810 in Southold by Nathaniel Dominy.  This windmill was moved to Shelter Island in 1839 and moved to its current location.  Not open to public.

Old Mill at Wainscott   Main Street; built in 1813 and moved several times.
Not open to the public.

Gardiner’s Island Mill   –   Built for the Gardiner family in 1795 and rebuilt 1815. Painted white.    Gardiner’s Island-Private Island   On the National Register of Historic Places since  1978,    Not open to public.   I actually got to see this Windmill when David Lyon Gardiner took the entire 5th grade of Gardiner Manor Elementary School (Bay Shore School District) to the Gardiner Family Island (Gardiner Island).   It was a fantastic opportunity for us to see the Island, and view the wildlife, buildings, etc. that many people don’t get the chance to do.

Southampton Mill    – Dates back to the early 1900s.
Southampton        Not open to the public.

Kathy Kiefer